Day 63 Kristiansund, Norway

 As we make our way north along the western side of Norway towards the very top of the country,  our next stop today is Kristiansund. This is another city that is spread across four islands, connected by bridges and a unique passenger ferry system which holds the distinction of being the world's oldest public transport system in continuous operation since 1876.

 Kristiansand was almost completely destroyed during World War 11 with only 20% of the city left standing.  The re-building effort resulted in distinctive post-war architecture that sets Kristiansund apart from other Norwegian cities. 

We didn't have a tour booked today, instead we decided to do our own walking tour around Kristiansund.  I downloaded a rough walking path with Google Maps and we were off.  The first thing we came upon was the Clipfish Woman that celebrates the Norwegian delicacy, Klippfisk (or dried and salted Cod).  Traditionally the fish was dried on rocks and was also known as Rock Fish.

We head away from the waters edge, through the town centre, and start heading uphill towards the former Opera House circa 1914.  You cannot see inside, and I wish we could have, because the building is beautiful and it is amazing that it is still standing after the war.  

Adjacent to the old Opera House are two lovely parks with beautiful plantings.  Even though it is now Autumn the flowers are still in full bloom.  The park is also studded with various statues and water features and I particularly liked the reclining horse.

We are walking a big loop back to our ship so we make our way back down the hill towards the waterfront.  The day is gradually improving as we woke to rain this morning. The rain stopped by the time we began our walk and was just overcast but now the sun is shining brightly. My photographs reflect the changing weather conditions.

Today our son Kurt would have turned 46.  We are heading to the onboard French restaurant, Chartreuse tonight to reflect and reminisce. xx💙

Day 62 Olden, Norway

We pulled the curtain in our bedroom wide open around 5.30 this morning to watch our ship glide quietly through the Nordfjord.  On both sides of the ship are soaring misty mountains with tumbling waterfalls and  colourful houses along the waters edge.  What an enchanting entrance to Olden.

Despite its small size, with a population of just under 700, Olden has become a major tourist destination with over 100 cruise ships visiting annually. One of the main draws to Olden is its proximity to the Briksdale glacier that we will be visiting on our tour today.

Our bus follows the Oldeelva River and on to Oldedalen valley for around 45 minutes before reaching Briksdale Inn.  The drive is truly spectacular and Philip and I discuss whether we have we ever seen anything more beautiful.  I don't think so.

Once we arrive at our destination we are transferred to Troll Cars, or as we would call them, ATV's, with seating for 8 people including the driver.  We leave as a group of four vehicles and slowly make our way up the steep mountainside towards the glacier.  These ATV's are the perfect vehicle for the job.  I wondered why each set of seats has a waterproof tarpaulin but it becomes perfectly clear as we pass over a raging river that covers us with water and mist. The drive takes us around 20 minutes and the magnificent glacier rises grandly above us.  The vehicles can only take us so far.  We now have around 700 metres of uphill walking before we reach the glacier.  The first quarter is very steep but it flattens into a gradual uphill after that.  I am a little short of breath but I think it might be the altitude.  We are a little bit disappointed that we didn't get right up close to the glacier, as we have in other places, but it is still worth our while to come here.  Glaciers always surprise me at how blue they are and the colour of the water flowing off them into the stream is the same crystal clear blue.

We stay at the glacier for around 45 minutes that gives us only just enough time to make it back down the path to reach the Troll Cars.  Thank goodness it is now downhill. The weather has been kind to us with just light showers drifting intermittently over us and the temperature is still mild.  The wind however is very strong and I watch as people everywhere are chasing their hats as they alighted from the buses!

Back at the Briksdale Lodge we make our way to the restaurant where we have tea, coffee and the most amazing display of cakes and slices waiting for us to devour, and devour we did!

We return to the ship the same way and it is just as scenic as it was on the way back, albeit from a different direction.  Instead of heading back onboard we wandered around the little township.  We like to spend a little bit of money in each place we visit, to help their economy of course, 😁 so Philip bought a cap (I think this is number 3 this trip) and I bought a gorgeous cheese slicer that I know will be put to good use.

Front

Back

We don't depart Olden until 8pm this evening and tomorrow we will be docking at Kristiansund.  We actually thought we were heading back to where we were a couple of days ago - Kristiansand - but that stupid King Kristian, that kept naming towns after himself, swapped the "a" for an "u" and decided that was a good idea…….

No tours booked tomorrow.  Just a stroll around the town.

Day 61 Stavanger, Norway

Stavanger (pronounced Star-vang-ya) is Norways fourth largest city with a population of 146,000. Founded in 1125, Stavanger has a rich history that is evident in its well-preserved old town, Gamle Stavanger.  This area features charming 18th and 19th century wooden houses that are protected as part of the city's cultural heritage.  The old town is just 900 metres from where we are docked so after lunch today we strolled through the cobblestone streets. 

Today's tour had the romantic name of Summer's Paradise.  It was not a summers day today however, with bleak skies.  Fortunately for us though, the temperature remains relatively mild.  Once onboard the bus we leave Stavanger behind and are on our way to Villa Rosenhage.  Norway, like many other European countries are masterful at tunnel building and we pass through two tunnels, one 6km long and the other 14km.  Once we leave the tunnels we are in the countryside and at the beginning of a large Fjord.  We follow along the edge of the Fjord until we reach the village of Jørpeland, where Villa Rosenhage is situated.

We are ushered inside the wonderful house circa 1912 and seated at tables where we are served tea and coffee with a soft waffle accompanied by strawberry jam and sour cream. While we were eating, the young owner regaled us with stories about the history of the house.  There is a lovely garden leading down to the harbour where we are encouraged to wander after our meal. We also wander the Main Street of Jørpeland that is filled with antique shops.  Not my thing but others enjoyed it.

We now follow along the Fjord to a lookout that our guide assures us will take our breath away.  The lookout lies between the Høllesli Tunnel that we pass through, and the Lysefjord Bridge.  The road across the bridge seemingly disappears into the mountain as we pass by.  

Our guide was not wrong when he said the view from the viewing point would be spectacular.  I wish it would have been a nicer day but honestly the cloudy skies across the Fjord make for a very moody and beautiful photograph.  The fjord is 42 km in length and at the entrance to the fjord it is around 10m in depth and at the deepest part it is 467 metres.  The soaring mountains on either side are around 1200 metres high.  

We re-trace our steps back to Stavanger through the long tunnels and we have one last stop that is Sverd I Fjell. This is a monument to the vikings and is three ten metre high bronze swords that look like they have been stabbed into the ground by a giant.  The artwork was created to commemorate Norway becoming a kingdom in 872 AD.  The swords symbolise peace, unity and freedom.

Stavanger is a beautiful city and its economy has evolved significantly over the years with the discovery of oil in the North Sea.  This lead to Stavanger becoming Norways "oil capital" driving rapid economic growth and population increase.  I took this photo from our balcony looking towards the old town when we arrived this morning.

Day 60 Kristiansand, Norway

We are now back in Norway and we docked at Kristiansand this morning around 7am.  It is another bleak showery day but not that cold…. around 17 degrees.  Our tour today is "Hollen and the Vest Agder Open Air Museum".  We didn't really know what was in store for us today and I rarely google a place before we arrive.  I prefer to be surprised. 

We were picked up by our bus around 9am and we are blessed to have a tour guide that makes us laugh with all his funny antidotes all the way to the Vest Agder Museum.  One of his tales was that back in the day, the people of Norway had developed a drinking problem when they found that they could make vodka from potatoes!

It is only a 15 minute drive that takes us through the centre of Kristiansand.  Kristiansand is the fifth largest city in Norway and was founded in 1641 by King Christian IV of Denmark and Norway.  He loved founding towns and almost always named them after himself.  He was a bit of a rogue though who fathered 11 children from his many mistresses. (Another of our guides stories)

Vest Agder Museum or Kristiansand Museum as the sign said, is a village that contains around 40 houses from different eras, some dating as far back as 1580.  All the houses, some with grass roofs, have been restored so that you may enter and get a feel for what it was like to live in that era.  Our museum guide is very informative and enthralls us with many tales.  She holds up a pair of ladies socks that have an exaggerated calf.  The women had to walk up and down steep slopes to collect water and that gave them huge calf muscles. This was seen as attractive by a potential suitor.  Some women even stuffed grass in the socks to exaggerate the calf muscle.

The Miniby (miniature houses) is also fascinating and gave us a good overview of how the villages would have looked.

After the outdoor museum we head to the little fishing village of Høllen.  We have left behind all the yellow houses of Denmark and now we have, in Norway, timber houses painted white with brown roofs.  The guide tells us that historically painting your house white was a status symbol in the early 1900's.  We walk down a very pretty street with every house beautifully maintained with gardens abundant with flowers.

Our walk continues down to the harbour where our bus is waiting.  This is also a very attractive area that would look even better on a day filled with sunshine.

It is now time to return to our ship via a road that follows the coastline.  It is very picturesque as we pass by lakes and small rocky fjords.  Our tour guide points out the smallest house in Norway….

We arrive back in the town centre and we pass the relatively new Kristiansand Opera House that has timber cladding in the shape of waves and the very modern art Museum.  We see the buildings quite clearly from our ship balcony and I thought the Art Museum were grain silos. Are they attractive buildings?  I guess it is a matter of opinion.

I will leave you with a photo of my lunch entreé.  It is tuna tartaré and I will go as far as saying it is the best entreé I've eaten so far on this cruise, and that's a big call.  The carrot and ginger sauce complemented the tuna so well and the dish was to die for…..