On our last day at Coonabarabran, and once again on advice from the caravan park owners, we drove towards Narrabri and around the 30km mark we turned down an un-signposted dirt road towards the Sandstone Caves in the Pilliga Nature Reserve.
This is Gamilaraay country and I loved reading the signpost. It says it all.
"Yaama! (Greetings!)
This rock has always been here for our people. Our ancestors were here long ago. From this hill we can see everything. We can see the Warrumbungles and the Nandewars. All this is Gamilaraay country...
This Rock.
Water and wind have caused this rock to change over a long time. The caves were made long ago. The rock is soft. Look out! Don't touch!
Long Ago.
Our ancestors made stone tools. They sharpened their axes. They marked the rock. Look out! Don't collect anything!
The Land.
Around here there are plants, animals and food. We have everything we need. We live with the land. Let the land touch you!"
The 3km circuit around the sandstone hill was awesome in every meaning and sense of the word. I actually thought I could hear the chatter of the tribe as they sat in the large caves but I guess it was just the wind in the trees. The towering sandstone cliff faces look like they could tumble at any moment but of course this is how the caves were formed and will continue to change over time.
I loved this place so much and I am also horrified that some of the caves have been fenced off because of the reckless behaviour of people who have plundered these sacred sites. I really hope that attitudes change in coming years and we have a greater respect for these incredible sacred sites. I thank the Gamilaraay people for allowing us the privilege of walking in their ancestors footsteps.
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