Day 8 Doubtful and Milford Sounds

Shortened Version

We experienced rough seas today, but our stateroom mid-ship made the ride comfortable. We cruised Doubtful Sound in the morning — despite cloudy weather it was peaceful and beautiful on the calm protected waters.
Later, in the afternoon, we reached Milford Sound, where the weather cleared and the scenery was spectacular. I took countless photos of towering mountains and numerous waterfalls, especially around Lady Bowen Falls at the fjord’s head. The fjord was busy with other boats, planes and helicopters, but the views were unforgettable. We wrapped up the day enjoying a delicious afternoon “high tea” onboard — a perfect finish to an amazing day. 

The sea has become very rough, as we were warned by our Captain, but where our suite is situated on the 6th deck - Midship - it is really not very bad at all.  Go forward or Aft and it is an entirely different matter.  On our last cruise we were on the 10th deck, Aft, and it was pretty rough back there. 

So today we cruised both Doubtful and Milford Sounds.  When we reached Doubtful Sound at around 10am the weather had closed in so I have no doubt that we did not see Doubtful Sound in its best light, however it was still lovely to cruise along in the smooth protected waters.

By the time we reached Milford Sound, around 3pm, the weather conditions had improved significantly, and we had the most glorious cruise through the fjord.  Honestly, I could not stop taking photographs.  So many waterfalls, and those mountains soaring up to 1700 metres were simply awesome, the tallest being Mitre Peak.

We share the fjord with dozens of tourist boats, planes and helicopters.  No sooner does one plane land than another takes to the sky.

We cruised all the way into the head of the fjord where Lady Bowen Falls, with a height of 162 metres was situated.  I was talking to another lady standing beside me and she said that she used to work in the tiny township and back in those days the main building was a five star resort.  Sadly, today it is a backpackers lodge.

To while away the hours cruising through the sound we enjoyed a very delicious array of delicacies at the onboard afternoon "high" tea.  It truly was a perfect day in every sense of the word.

Day 7 Port Chalmers (Dunedin), NZ

ChatGPT condensed version:

The weather was sunny but cool as the cruise ship docked at Port Chalmers, near Dunedin. The day’s tour started with a visit to the magnificent Dunedin Railway Station, admired for its lavish architecture. Next, we travelled to Larnach Castle, a historic Gothic-style mansion built in 1871 with fine imported materials; where we toured the castle and expansive gardens.

Afterward, the bus took us back toward Dunedin where we passed Baldwin Street, famously steep and once the world’s steepest straight street. The tour guide’s friendly banter added to the experience.

That evening, back on the ship Silver Moon, we dined in the Italian restaurant La Terrazzo, enjoying aglio olio and lamb chops. The meal was made festive by crew members singing Christmas carols.

Full Version

We have been so lucky (touch wood) with weather.  The sun was shining brightly again today but still on the chilly side with the temperature around 14 degrees.  Today we are docked at Port Chalmers that is around a 20 minute drive from Dunedin where we will be sightseeing and visiting Larnach Castle.

Our first stop as at the magnificent Dunedin Railway Station that was built in 1904.  The architecture both inside and out is lavish and although there are no commercial trains coming to Dunedin these days, there is a tourist train that visits some scenic destinations around Dunedin. 

Our bus driver/tour guide now takes us along the scenic drive to Lanarch Castle.  

This castle was built in 1871 by the baron William Lanarch for his first wife, Eliza.  This Gothic style castle was spared no expense with marble from Italy, glass from Venice and tiles from England.  But sadly the castle fell into disrepair in 1898 after William committed suicide caused by financial woes and the deaths of his two wives.  The building was repurposed as nuns retreat, soldier billet and even the ballroom was used to house sheep!  But in 1967 the castle was purchased by Barry and Margaret Barret who began the massive task of restoring the castle to its former glory.  It is still privately owned, now offering tours, events and accomodation.

After spending an hour and a half touring through the castle and walking around the expansive gardens it was time to board the bus again for our drive back to Dunedin.  This time our bus driver took the steep drive down the mountain and then followed the ocean's edge.  It was another scenic drive.  Once we were back in Dunedin we did a drive by the worlds (Guinness World Record) steepest straight street, Baldwin Street.  It lost the title when a welsh road claimed to be steeper but claimed it back when it was found that the welsh street was not a straight road and was measured incorrectly.

Our New Zealand tour guide/bus driver made this tour enjoyable.  There was a bit of banter between the Aussies and this New Zealander but all in good humour.  But every time he mention the number 6 (pronounced as "sex") all the Aussies would burst out laughing.  At one stage he had to say 66, and quickly said "at the risk of the Aussies taking the Mickey".   I don't think the other nationalities got it.  

Back on board the Silver Moon and dinner tonight was in the Italian Restaurant, La Terrazzo.  We both enjoyed the Aglio Olio as a starter followed by the very tender Lamb Chops.  Half way through our meal we had some of the staff members come into the restaurant singing Christmas Carols.  It was such a lovely gesture and it really got us in the mood for Christmas.

Day 6 Christchurch (Lyttelton), South Island, NZ

Condensed Version:

 Today we enjoyed the “Discover Christchurch” tour, keen to see how the city has evolved since the devastating 2011 earthquakes. After a brief customs delay, we set off by double-decker bus through the tunnel to Takahe Lookout, where we enjoyed sweeping views over Christchurch, the Canterbury Plains and the ocean, although Mt Cook was hidden by cloud.

We then strolled through the beautiful Mona Vale Gardens before heading into the city centre to see Christchurch’s main highlights, striking street murals and areas shaped by the earthquakes, learning about the city’s impressive rebuild and returning residents. On the way back we stopped at Sumner Beach to see Cave Rock, then travelled the dramatic Summit Road with spectacular views over Lyttelton Harbour. Back on board by 1.30, we enjoyed lunch before retreating to our suite for a well-earned afternoon nap.

Full Version:

Today we are docked at Lyttelton that we are told is a suburb of Christchurch.  I haven't confirmed this yet, but it is a lovely town with a deep water harbour for ships to berth.

Our tour today was "Discover Christchurch".  We were interested to explore Christchurch following the devastating 2011 earthquakes so this was the perfect tour.  There was a slight delay of around an hour this morning before our ship was cleared by customs and passengers were allowed to leave the ship for our tours.  

A double-decker bus was waiting for us pier side and we sat back and enjoyed the scenic drive, through the tunnel, to our first stop at Takahe Lookout.  From here we had stunning views over Christchurch, the Canterbury Plains, ocean and distant Southern Alps where the highest mountain in New Zealand, Mt Cook, is situated.  Unfortunately we didn't get a good view of the mountain that was shrouded in cloud.

From the lookout it was on to Mona Vale Gardens where we strolled through the lovely gardens where there were lots of photo opportunities.

Next, we headed into the city centre where our tour guide pointed out the city's main highlights.  We visited all the must-see central city sights whilst enjoying some of the street murals and areas affected by the Canterbury earthquakes.  We learned about the exciting rebuild that is now taking place in Christchurch and about the many people who departed the city and who have now returned.

The morning had moved along very quickly and it was now time to return to our ship via the ocean road.  We stopped at Sumner Beach to have a Quick Look at Cave Rock and then back on the bus to drive down the extremely steep and windy Summit Road with truly spectacular views over the harbour and waterways around Lyttelton.

It was around 1.30 when we again boarded our ship and after a hearty meal of tuna salad sandwich followed by an Eton mess, returned to our suite for an afternoon nap.

Day 5 Picton, South Island, NZ

SHORTENED VERSION

The forecast promised showers, but Picton surprised us with sunshine ☀️ We cruised quietly through Queen Charlotte Sound on a catamaran, rugged up against the wind and soaking in the stunning bays, wildlife, and those secluded homes only reachable by boat. A wander around Picton, a long lunch back on the ship, and dinner with old cruise friends made it a perfect day. 💙

The longer version.

The weather forecast predicted showers today but we were treated with a beautiful sunshine day - for the most part.  Our tour is Queen Charlotte Sound Catamaran Cruise and we boarded the shuttle bus around 9am for the short journey to our waiting Catamaran.  

The catamaran silently made its way out of the harbour and into the pristine natural beauty of the sound.  We decided to sit upstairs, in the open to get a better look and feel and we weren't disappointed although we had to don our windproof jackets as the wind picked up.  

Our first stop was at Double Cove where the boat crew fed the "pet fish" that were mostly blue cod and mullet.  There was also a sneaky paradise duck that made an appearance.  

Next we made our way into another cove that had a lot of magnificent hillside homes.  It is secluded and the only way in and out is by boat.  We passed a boat shed that was leaning at an angle and the captain explained that this was a reminder of what happened a few years ago in a large rain event that saw houses slip.

We then journeyed further into the sound where the captain pointed out the one and only waterfall.  Try and spot it in this photo……

There is one sheep farm that we pass but the country is not really suitable for farming.  However, full marks for the farmer giving it a go.

We are now slowly making our way back to the harbour after our two hour cruise.  It was leisurely and probably just the thing needed for me and my dicky knee.  Once we disembarked the catamaran we decided to take the shuttle back to the ship as we wanted to roam the streets of Picton.  It is a gorgeous town with a population of around 4,000.  The townsfolk welcome us with happy faces and cheerful words that is wonderful to see.

Back on board the ship and time for a delicious three course lunch and a rest this afternoon before we head to dinner with friends from our previous cruise.